Nusr-et Steakhouse
January 20, 2017
Nusret Roportaj
January 20, 2017
“Or have you ever eaten meat in Nusret until now? Then you do not eat meat. It’s delicious. That’s awesome. The man is a myth. Everyone takes care of everyone. Everyone knows how to love meat.

It cuts itself, cooks itself, serves itself. Ünlüler does not leave his place. Someone calls you there. But never go without a reservation. You wait 40 minutes for standing counters. But you know, worth it! .. ”
I’d heard about the recognition of Nusrat Gokce them. Who is this Nusret?
He’s a butcher.
But it’s not an ordinary butcher. He’s a meat expert.
You can say professor, artist too.
A man who devoted his life to ete.
You will understand your life as you read it.
I have not had a chance to go to Etiler Çamlık’s place until now. I was always on one side of my head, but I could not, I heard when Ferit Şahenk was at the level of six zero figures, I said it was now a condition.

HAPPY DISCONNECT/ Images / 100 / 0x0 / 55eb3db0f018fbb8f8b4680b

I met in the studio of Zeynel Abidin.
I was very surprised to see it.
29 years old, long-haired, Ninja Is desem Indians did, revealed a mixed bizarre appeal made in certain sports, muscles, lozenges …
“Half I have time, I have to go, 200 people waiting for me,” he said.
I thought he was joking.
Zeynel has put us together, one of Turkey’s best photographers will attract us;The man says, “I’ll be out in 20 minutes”.
“Do not pretend to be making fun of me,” he says.
The water flowing to the meat is standing there for him, how courteous he is, he will tie the front of his coat and go to the main posture.
He is also respectful to his customers.
Phone ringing off the hook: a thousand times, subject to any phone … he
says needs to be done in the kitchen.
Noah said, he did not say prophets.
Half an hour later, he was really at the restaurant.
I get a hat in the face of respect for the job.


I went after him, of course.
And that’s what!
Nusret in Çamlık is demolishing!
How crowded, my darling found me a tiny table hard.
People are standing for 40 minutes.
I fainted when I was waiting for a woman.
Moreover, there is no feature in that place, no ambiance, no elegant place, nothing special.
The whole number is ette.
I think it was one of the finest meals I’ve ever had for life.
I waited for the interview.
It was 10 o’clock in the evening, 11 in the morning, 11 in the half, the man cooks meat inside, I see it in the smoke, you believe it, sometimes he does the service.
“It’s like a half-night at night,” he said, “You go, I’ll pick you up at 7:00 in the morning,” he said. I said, “What does that mean?” “We talk when we go to Tuzla to buy Bostanci meat,” he said.
We really met at 7:00 in the morning.
And he told me the story …
I was very impressed, would you let you be affected?

When did you know the school is not for you?
 – I’ve been upstairs for two years in middle 1, so …/ Images / 100 / 0x0 / 55eb3db0f018fbb8f8b4680d

Have you ever had a conflict with the family, have not they ever said, “Go to my son and go”?
 – Thieves? Dad. But reading in me was no love. I’m a primary school graduate.

When did you decide to be the butcher?
 – My brother entered the town, so I took it to the streets to make sure I was not going around.

How many are brothers?
 – Five. I am the second from the sonde.

Did your other brothers read it?
 – It’s just our youngest.

Mother and father necro?
 – My dad was a worker in a coal mine, my mom is a housewife.

How do you remember your childhood?
 – I did not have a child, I always worked. I remember financial difficulties, impossibilities.

How did you dream?
 – Did not have. I started working at Günaydın Kasap in Bostanci, 13-14 years old. I arrived at Bostanci from Bayramoğlu and got a job. I worked as hard as a soldier. No leave, no holiday, nothing.

Is it easy to learn to be a butcher?
 – No, it’s too rough. So he does not have a good butcher too.

What were you doing when you started working at 13?
 – Footwork. Shop cleaning. Bring it on. I had 10 different masters at the beginning, all of them individually.

Did you take the flesh?
 – No dear, the meat intake is serious business. Even if I do not touch the meat in those years. When I was a little puzzled, they let me touch the bone. I started to strip the bone. The bell is visible there.

Is it sociology or art?
 – Knowledge and experience are needed, but art. Meat processing, preparation is an art in itself.


In this profession are the apprentices from the apprentices of the apprentices coming from milk?
 – He’s coming! Because the masters do not like to teach and show what they know. They say, “Here comes the meat, it is like this.” You will find out, look. If you’re awake, you can grab small hits. You can also start to like the job like me …

How long does it take to be good at this?
 – It depends on the person. I have been doing this for 25 years and even people who do not know anything are coming out. The broom is taking his hand, the pie is killing it. No cookies, no kitchens, unusual …

What are you aware of? Why are you so good, not others?
 It might be strange to say that, but I am an artist in this business. Who do the painting, I do this job. I cut meat like poetry, I cook, I talk to meat. I love my love. I’ve been doing this every day for 15 years without ever getting bored.

Can I see your hands …
 – (Displaying) Butcher’s hand as mine! Touch me, you always say goodbye, “What is this?”

What are your other brothers doing?
 – It’s all with me now. We are in this business. But when we come to the workplace, we do not have a brother or sister relationship. Life for us, if not meat. I get up in the morning and go to the flesh.

What do you mean ‘go to the meat’?
 – I’m on the road at 6:00 in the morning. Tuzla, Bostanci, Kadıköy, Afyon, Kayseri … I will leave that job to someone else. Because this is the basis of your work, you will get good meat before anything else. Then I come here, I take out the meats I got from the previous post, I serve them, I prepare them, I open the service. The customers are coming, I know everyone’s style. Who is the place, how is the place. Continue up to half a night.

You’re still butchering so …
 – Of course, of course … anyone, “Restaurant has” I’m not saying, I’m butcher basbayag.


Did your lovers come out to appeal to your profession?
 – I do not have a girlfriend. Because a woman has no chance to leave time.

Can not you be a lover?
 – He can not. Let’s grab hold of it, let’s go to the cinema or sit down, it is not possible. The meat goes in front of everything.

NUSRET’S 50 PERCENT OF FERTILES ABI/ Images / 100 / 0x0 / 55eb3db0f018fbb8f8b4680f

Where did the partnership with Ferih Şahenk come from?
 – Ferit Sahenk is a businessman and a visionary who I admire very much. He’s also a client. I ate here many times. I think he saw the quality of our meat. He likes his back. I make him a cage, he saves the meat. He should have liked our way of working here, so he proposed a partnership two months ago. We accepted the seve seve.

Is it true that he paid you $ 6 million?
 – It does not suit us to say the numbers. But yes, we gave 50 percent of Nusret to Ferit Abi. Our goal is to combine our strengths and contribute to the eating and drinking culture in Turkey. We have plans to open Nusret in Zorlu Center, across Baghdad Street, Dubai and New York.

But it’s all good because you’re always at the beginning of your business and you’re interested in one person at a time. You can not be in five places! It will not work when the Nusret butiklig …
 – Do not say that. We build an academy, we raise people. This is the biggest problem in Turkey, but you do not have a man to run it. However, we will put those who graduated from our academy to our branches. And we will make Nusret a world brand. Besides, we have an animal farm project, we will start all these in 2012.

YOU KNOW YOURSELF, KASAP KAL I said I was going to go to Argentina and America and improve myself

In Bostanci, you started to work in Günaydın Kasap, then what happened?
– I was there until the troop was gone. Then I opened a branch in Istinye Park, worked for a year, fired me …

No, why?
 – When I got into work, Günaydın had only two branches. A butcher and a kebab in Kucukyalı. I started in the butcher, the elimination was good, and the relationship with the customer. Then the bosses said, “You’re going to Istinye Park. You’ll be the butcher’s manager! “Year 2008, doors opened, 500-600 people started to eat food a day. We do not have five minutes to sit. When people come, I choose the meat for their style, I cook it, then I give it to the waiter and serve it. Everyone is thanking you. Slowly people started to say, “Nusret is like this, Nusret is like that, when you get there, you should find Nusret!”

Is that why he fired his work?
 – Yes, it is! I have a waiter but I choose the customer’s meat. I have the cook but I cook the meat. I have a chef, but I’m a customer. The workers are upset. A reaction, a reaction … Complaints. The boss said, “I’m taking you back to Bostanci.” I also saw the potential of the customer there, “I do not want to go back 10 years,” I said, “good,” said the door.

 – I took two brothers and I left. After 15 days, he said, “You are our child, meat is not separated from nail.” “I do not start in Bostanci,” I said. “We will open a shop in Etiler”, “I’ll send you there.” Hay, hay. But there is no soul in the shop. It’s a tiny place. A total of 35-40 people can eat. There is Günaydın Kebapçısı opposite. Ful, it’s not even a person in our shop. When I saw that the customers I knew from Istinye Park had entered the kebab shop, I prepared thin meats for the snack and sent them to the table where the customer sat …

Were they not mad?
 – Yoo, that’s where you are. They were managing us at first. The incoming customer was enjoying my meat, then of course nothing was cutting it. “Who sent this meat?” “Nusret. He saw you in the face … ”

… You start to attract customers
 – and how! Daily ciromuz started to be 10-12 thousand pounds. That little shop was competing against the kebab. When the incoming customers did not fit in, we were seating their fairy tales. So, I was still complaining to the boss. The bosses are here. They saw my sincerity with the customer, they were displeased with their love. They said, “Screw you, stay the butcher!” They said, “Do business with the customers. Do not worry about choosing your meat. “” But would you? “I said,” I made the difference by doing exactly what you said do not do. “Then I realize that they do not want us to improve. But by the way, my reputation has spread. My name was even in front of Günaydın. People replied “Where are you going?” To the question “Nusret”. That made them crazy.

Then, well …
 – Then I attach to the head, I would go to Argentina …

What’s the deal?
 – If I want to be ambitious, I should have seen what is being done in the world. How do they grow and cut the animals … Do they have different cooking methods? Argentina is one of the most advanced countries in the world. One of my clients was a tool for me. “These things will help you,” he said, giving them a name. My bosses were nervous again, even saying, “Do not go. What are you going to do? There they are calves, and those are calves! ” They did not pay for the road. I got my pension early, I set up my credit cards, I skipped it. Right, the commercial attaché there helped me a lot. I brought three months gold to Buenos Aires. I worked in a few nice restaurants. I learned a lot about my profession, how the meat is cooked differently, how it is served differently. I even got business offers there.

What happened after you left?
 – I put the innovations I learned there. For example, I started to make Lokum return to Argentina. Then you get ‘walnut’ out, then ‘cage’ …

Where is the ‘lokum’ animal?
 – The back. The walnut is the inside of the back. The cage is both ribs and ribs. Of course, folks elsewhere say, “I want Turkish Delight”, no one knows.


Then what?
 – A year later, this time I said to the bosses, “I’m going to America.” Check out the steak houses over there. There are 80, 100 years old restaurants in New York. It was again a customer vehicle: Pasha’s restaurant was linked to the owner Kemal Abi. He said, “Gelsin help.” However, the consulate did not issue a visa. I’ve been rejected three times. I think they will go there and stay there. This time I applied for the fourth time and took newspaper writings about me. Finally convinced. Ver elini America …
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Your bosses are not angry?
 – What anger! They want to fire, but they can not even see me lose one side. I started in Kemal Abi’s kitchen. Look, I’m entrusted to the Mexican business, but no one knows. The flesh is coming, they do not know where to go. They just do chops, steak and stuff, they can not use the rest. I said, “Leave your brother to me.” I made the skewer, I made the ribs, I made the back, I pulled out the ax. The Mexican cooks were taking me to the camera on my cell phone, saying “Wow!” I’m dizzy with them. I did the same thing at other restaurants where Kemal Abi introduced me. There is no eye on the parada marada. All I want is empathy, knowledge, business learning. Then Kemal Abi said, “Nusret, I will bring journalists to meet the butcher from Turkey. You make a menu according to your head. ” I heard about the New York Times.

 – Yeah. I have visited many steak houses the rest of the time. From there I got something, I returned to Istanbul. But I was out of the business again.

Why this time?
 – They put our store in renovations. In the meantime I made a reservation for a grub from China, I welcomed them to the kebab shop. You are the one who did this; They said, “Guy laugh!” It was actually good, I kept going on my way. In the meantime, a lot of people offered me partnership.

Who are they?
 – Valla, there was a long list, Ajda Pekkan, Kenan Doğulu, Orhan Gencebay … But I decided in my current partner. And we opened it. Thank God we have been fulling for two years.

How do I explain why I do not ask … I was gonna ask you the brand
 – I’m happy, I’m trying to add diversity. I do not feel like a boss or anything, I’m still on fire. Yes, I do not earn as much money as I am from this business but I work like a donkey. I have no life outside of this.

What do you think about meat?
 – I earn my future. I owe everything to ete. Bread is a sacred thing for me, for me too, as soon as thought is lifted.

There’s no ambience in your shop, not a classy place …
 – that is not necessary. The meat you eat is important. I do not even give bread. Salad and potatoes that much. I do not get into vegetable. Here ‘star’ meat, nothing should be ahead of him.

You saw it understands, “This meat is good,” you say …
 – Men’s how passing a beautiful woman “Whether it’s me,” he says, manifests appreciation, I feel it when I saw a calf …

Which type of meat more palatable, lamb, beef …
 – It varies according to style. Some people do not have a lamb in their mouth at all, it’s heavy. I like them all, not the day I did not eat meat.

Let’s say meat is scrumptious, like cotton: Would it suck if it is not cooked correctly?
 – No? You look gold. Even if you cook a great meat for 20 seconds, it can be like a board.

How many people are working here?
 – 40.

Are you paying a good salary?
 – The salaries of waiters working here are between 8-9 thousand liras. They deserve every penny they get because they work hard.

Let’s say I’m going to make a tenderloin, what should I look out for?
 – I am natural, I do not like to marinate it. I do not need it when the meat has its own flavor and flavor. But I have no objection to sealing …

How so?
 – You can put olive oil or sunflower oil on it, then put it on a griddle, a grill, a cast iron pan or a little butter on the teapot, and you like the pomegranate. Then cut the gold. But not so much then it becomes boiling. You will not pierce the flesh, it will lose its water. Then all the red water comes out and the meat becomes like a sponge, like a board, nothing like it.

Some progress in the oven before …
– 200-250 degrees can be removed after a while, and then wait. But we do not bake here, it’s just a barbecue.

Do you have goals such as writing books?
 – I have good information, I want to write your book. The tasting is also good.

Well life is not yours, you just trying to …
 – Do not have anything to. It is not so hard to catch a success, but it is hard to keep it, to keep it constant. I’m going to study this tempoda for a while.

Does not get any problems with his brother, something you disagree …
 – I do not have time to deal with the problem. When the shop opens, no one has a chance to talk to anyone.


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